4 corners: TULIP BLOCK

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TULIP PATTERN ….

I contact Missouri Star Quilt Co to be able to use the patterns from their videos with our 6.5 inch charm squares  ... They said go for it but I need to write my own instructions... so here goes .

Link  …   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEMr02zvjjU&t=8s

MISSOURI STAR QUILT COMPANY- - TOTALLY TULIPS  

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I believe in using what you have… so I just used our 6.5 inch charms from our exchanges. I chose charms appropriate for tulip colors, but you can you any fabric you like.

Leaves : 

  Make 4 half square triangles using green and white 6.5 inch  charms using any technique you know.   I like the mark the diagonal and sew 1/4 inch to each side of the diagonal. 

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Sew a quarter inch from the diagonal and split apart to form your half square triangles.

  

Square to 6 inches

 I then squared up my block to 6 inches.  Assemble your patches to form a leaf.  Sew two of the half square triangles top to bottom.  A 1-1/2 inch strip will be sewn between the blocks to form a stem.

 

Sew the half square triangle top and bottom to form leaf

Sew a 1-1/2 inch strip to form a stem of one inch

 The assembled leaf block should measure 12 inches wide and 11 inches in length

Flowers: 

 To make the snowballs divide a white background  6.5 inch charms in quarters.  Mark the back of the 3-1/4 patch and sew across the diagonal.  Trim out the excess from the back. ( You can get  bonus half square triangles if you sew a half inch away from your diagonals.

 

Assemble your patches to make a tulip, sew together like a four patch.

 Assemble your patches to look like a tulip in any color way you like.. the more flower pedals you have the better mix of flowers you can make.  Flower head should measure 12.5  inches wide by 12.5 inches in length ( un- assembled)

 Sew the flower block on to the leaf block. 

 

 Square up the blocks so they are all the same size… If you have slightly different size blocks you can trim them to a slightly smaller size …

 OR …

Add coping / sashing strips around the block then square up.   

Finished block will be about …12 inch wide x 22-24 inches tall…. Then you frame them, square them up to the same size and assemble them into a quilt. The discrepancy in size will be the results of your decisions along the way.

PRE- SASHED BLOCK ( 3 inches)

You will note the leaf blocks are smaller then the flower head ( these blocks were made from orphan half square triangles of 5-1/2 inches ) ... I added coping strips on each side of the leaves before sewing them to the flower head block.) 

Finished block will be about …12 inch wide x 22-24 inches tall…. Then you frame them, square them up to the same size and assemble them into a quilt. The discrepancy in size will be the results of your decisions along the way.

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Block Instructions for Donation Quilt Project - February 2019

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Block size:    17 inches wide  x 12 inches length finished.

Size of Quilt:   76 x 87    ( Size to be determined by the number of patches donated.)

Background fabric: 3.5 yards ( We are planning on black Kona or Bella to make the colors pop.) 

String patches assorted print, tone on tone, solids… whatever you have. BRIGHT / jewel colors work best.  Contrast between fabrics is desirable.

Assorted size of strings: largest 3 inches wide but no smaller than

1-1/2 inches wide.  The skinnier your strips the more sewing you have to do.

You will be given 2 pieces of PELLON grid interfacing.  (Interfacing size is 7.5 inches by  13   inches  in length.)   You can use any pellon light weight you may have ... we just had the grid interfacing.

We are hoping you will fill the interface with assorted strings from your scrap sash. 

Bright colors work best and mix them up on the interfacing.  

Tips for a successful block:

Plan and start and end the interfacing with a 2-inch string.  This will keep any seams on the center unit away from blocks seams and will make easier assembly.   Do not square up the blocks as we will take care of it on assembly.

My strings tended to be 1-1/2 inches to 3 inches wide … the smaller the string the more sewing you have to do.  I used these patches as LEADERS and ENDERS between other work.  Or on days I just wanted to sew mindlessly I would just pull out a lot of strings and sew.

Sew and FLIP on Interfacing:

Take a two inch plus size sting to start your patch.  I often use a dab of glue stick to keep the patch in place. 

Sew a second string on the first patch.  Flip the second string over.  I found pressing (finger pressing, using a wood roller or hot iron) the patch before sewing on the next patch made the best block.  Skip pressing and you tend to get pleats in the seam.

Sew then flip each patch till you reach the end.  Try and have a large patch at the end of the block. 

I found it best to avoid having a seam near the end of the block as it interfered with the block assembly and causes unnecessary bulk in the seams. DO NOT worry too much about if your patch is sewn straight or crooked as we will use what you give us.   I often sewed off the end of the interfacing and then square it up before assembly to the size of the interfacing.

We would also like to take a collection for purchase of background and batting.  If you have 4 yards of one color of solid, tone on tone reads solid fabric.   Donation of money would allow us to purchase the batting and the desired yardage of Kona or Bella Solids.  (Strictly voluntary.)

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